Tunday, Any given Day !!!!

We often made Kebabs at home, these did not necessarily pop out of out backyard tandoor but rather came fried out of my moms decade old frying pan. Meat patties were flavored with spices before frying them carefully to retain their softness so that one needn’t use their teeth to eat them. My mom turned these out occasionally and especially during parties held at our place. I helped her out in most occasions and thereby know the whole process by heart, but me helping out was more for the promise of the first kebab landing in my tummy than helping mummy. My mom kept a very strict account of all the kebabs made and gave me permission to finish any leftovers, much to my mum’s delight and my plight there were never any leftovers. Move forward to 2003 when I came to Bangalore and started college, I was staying with my aunt and she too once a year produced the same kebabs to be sold at the yearly Durga Puja celebrations. The best part was that she ensured every helping hand got quite well rewarded. Sadly my aunt relocated to Calcutta last December and there would be no kebabs on offer (my single room does not even have a kitchen).

 

And then just by chance I stumbled upon “Tunday Kebabi”. Passing by my ever food sensing radars locked on a smell that had been familiar right from childhood and within an ETA of a few seconds almost as if drawn by the fragrance I landed in front of a shop selling kebabs just the way I knew it. A large frying pan and a man next to it expertly making small patties and frying them up to be served piping hot it was as if I rediscovered home again. The place is located in Koramangala 5^th block (the JNC lane) above “Lazeez”. Food is made at the entrance especially the kebabs a evil way to draw people full to the brim to come and have a sample at least. There were mutton and chicken dishes but they were for another day to sample. The place was full so I was asked if I wanted to get the food packed. Yes I did want to pack them up but then I wanted to sample them too. My answer, “yahin pe khana hain” attracted stares. I proceeded to find a seat for myself in that jam-packed hall, and unable to do so sat on a lone gas cylinder and ordered. I packed 2 plates of the “Tunday Kebabs” along with rotis and sampled a plate there. Food arrived, I started eating, more or less unmindful of the pairs of eyes still on me. A few lecherous, mostly curious, and some disapproving. Once the Tundes finished, I happened to look around the place and noticed the owner had pictures of him and several Bollywood stars placed all around the eating area, there was one with “Priyanka Gandhi” too.

I came back again the next day along with a friend of mine and this time we even ordered some chicken. The roasted chicken was supposed to be the way it is but a tag bit dry for my taste. We shared some more “Tunde’s” and split a “Firni” for desert. The meal cost us 300 bucks which going by the quantity and quality of the food was quite a good deal.

I came back home and for the first time in 24 years of my life tried doing some research on the type of kebabs my aunt and mum made. Result a rich Lucknowi nobleman once lost all his teeth, yet couldn’t give up his love for kababs. So he ordered his One handed master chef to whip up a kabab that he could eat without missing his teeth, meaning, the kabab had to just melt in his mouth. So successful was the experiment that the recipe lived on, predictably called Tunde Kabab. My grandfather had spent quite some time as an IAS officer in Lucknow and going by his passion for Kebabs my grand mom must have picked up the recipe for this tasty easy to make kebabs and passed it on to my mom and aunt.

Damm !! after all the years of thinking the famed kebab cooked at home was invented by my mom/ aunt I need to take a re look at it and sink in the feeling that it was actually a creation of a “One handed Bawarchi” working for a “Toothless Owner”. I am suddenly hungry all over again.

Bone Marrow Omelette’s in the Temple City

Crab fry, Rabbit Roast, Pigeon Fry and the Bone marrow omelette’s. If you are in Madurai its time you took a leaf of faith from sampling the same old boring stuff and be a bit adventurous. The place “Amma Mess” is a small cramped mess serving out these culinary delights from its small kitchen. Not very surprising is the fact like most Mess’s in the earlier days the menu has been fixed and certified by the women, the owners mother started it and has passed the traits to her son’s wife, the quality however remains the same.

A look at the menu shall suggest that this place is not for the regular routine food but rather the delicacies which one would not have every day, moreover every item listed on the menu were non vegetarian. The very first look on the menu shall attract your attention to the “Bone Marrow Omelet”, as unique the name sounds so it the taste of it. Soft Bone Marrow is taken out from the bones of Goat Meat and along with the pancreas it is used to make a gravy to which eggs are added. Surprisingly even if the process suggests that the omelet might come out stinking of raw meat it doesn’t due to the liberal usage of garam masala and ginger garlic paste along with pepper. A bite into the omelet and is melts into your mouth. Other than the “Bone Marrow” there is also the “Fish” and “Chicken” omelette’s but then they are not very out of the ordinary.

The ayirai’ fish gravy was said to be legendary and a dish recommended by Kamal Hassan but we choose to order the “Rabbit Roast” along with some Chicken. There wernt any Crabs or Prawns available as we were a bit late getting into the place. The Rabbit however blew away any desire of either crab or prawns. Thought it says “Rabbit Roast” the meat comes along with a thick black gravy along with heaps of oil, the meat itself is a strong and with a different flavour. It’s not soft and succulent however as like lamb or goat but it is the flavour of the of the meat which adds to the taste. Do o remember to order a plate each as meats of most game animals are quite small in portions. We tried mutton next, the Chukka is a dry dish thought the spices and the masala overpower the taste of the meat.

The place is open from 12 to 4 and then again from 6 to 10. Other than the usual menu Amma Mess also serves up interesting “Tiffin” items such as the “Prawns” dosa, and “Ayirai” fish dosa.

So the next time you are in Madurai try re kindling your taste buds with a vist to “Amma Mess”.

PS – For the sweltering heat the place does have an AC, but its only AC from 6 to 10 time when the heat normally cools down.

The Land of Milk and Ghee

I was going to Amritsar and my visit was supposed to be filled with experiences of original “Tandoori Chicken”, Murgh Makhni (Butter Chicken), Mutton Qurma and Amritsari Fish. But then all I did have were piping hot butter laden Kulche’s, slow cooked and again very buttery Daal Makhni, puri-alu and gur-halwa, pakoris, kachauris, jalebis, phirni, kulfi, ma-ki-dal and of course Lassi. In much contrast to most of our views that the city is full of joints serving Tandoori Chicken and Amritsari Fish, vegetarian food is what dominates over here. A little walk around the Golden Temple and one shall finds dhabas catering only vegetarian food. What shall also surprise on is the fact that every second shop selling food in the city makes Jalebis. The city is after all the land of milk and ghee and how better to confirm the same by beginning the day with a meal of crisp Jalebi’s along with Lassi. The crunch of freshly made Jalebi’s straight from the wok along with the thick creamy Lassi does make a heavenly combination.

 

“Amrisari Kulcha” for breakfast is a must if you are in the city and just as the local’s head down to one of the many “Kulche Cholle” joint which open for breakfast. “Kulche” is basically a plump but flaky roti filled with a potato base inside. Supposed to be eaten along with “Cholle” and a Tamarind based chutney one can well have it along with the generous helpings of butter that comes along with it. “Kanha’s” on Lawrence road is a good option to have these Fluffy delights. Wash it down with a tall glass of Lassi and if you still do have place for anything else do as the sardar’s do, munch on to some Jalebi’s. But 2 Kulches along with all the generous lashing of butter even the Lassi would seem like a tall order to finish. But then while in Amritsar is almost impossible to do without Lassi. Served throughout the city in tall steel glasses along with a topping of thick cream it is almost criminal to have come to Punjab and not have Lassi. So you do finish off your Lassi and struggle to move under the weight of all the butter and cream thinking of skipping lunch. But then a visit to the old city and amongst the bylanes of the Golden Temple you would discover dhabas serving buttery Daal, smokey paranthas and almost as if lured by the smell of clarified ghee and butter walk into one of these and order even if you are still full to the brim.

 

Bharawan Dhaba is now an almost 100-year-old institution established way back in 1912. The old rickety benches and tables have given way to plastic ones but the food is excellent. Order Dal Makhni and some rotis and soon you would get a bowl of rich thick black Daal (seasoned with butter of course) which is perfect with the Tandoori rotis. And then there is the “Makke Ki Roti and Sarson Da Saag”, after years of being forced to have cheap copies of the original recipe I finally managed to sample the authentic one. Sarson ka saag is a gravy, made out of mustard seeds which is accompanied with Makki ki roti (corn bread). The Roti obviously was served with a liberal helping of Ghee. Post lunch is probably the only time one does not munch on to a Jalebi, however for the sweet toothed there is Rasmalai, Phini or Malai Kulfi to choose from. And if the measures of the people ordering all of the three were an indicator then the dishes would get high marks. I opted for a Malai Kulfi and hopped on to a rickshaw as all the food had drained me from any willingness to walk.

 

The the “Kulche Cholle” places and the dhabas woo you during the day then the street food would during the night. The air at night is full of chicken, fish or mutton cooked in the tandoor, dep fried or over a tawa. The “Tandoori Chicken” is made as the way it is supposed to be and is not the usual “Grilled” ones dipped in “Orange” colour we find all over the country. The chicken fresh out of the tandoor is crisp and a bit burnt on the outside while being soft and succulent inside. The best and the most common street snack is the “Amritsari Fish” coated in a batter of chickpeas and seasoned with Ajwain it is served fried straight from a pot of mustard oil. The best part of the fish is that it’s not soggy or dripping with oil but actually firm and dry. Another bestseller here is the “Mutton Tikkas” which are first cooked in a tandoor and then mixed with masalas over a tawa. Mutton Curry along with Kulchas too is a much-loved dish. The mutton is cooked in a paste of garam masala, curd, tomatoes, chillies and onions, which is lapped up along with stuffed “Aaloo Kulchas’. The Dhabas are mostly small dingy places but then it is here you get the best food which is not only tasty but also clean and easy on ones wallet.

 

Amritsar for many is a spiritual journey, the Golden Temple get on to you with a large does of faith, but once you are out of the temple complex each morsel of food you have in the city too is a journey no less spiritual. Visiting the city forget all the talk of fat-free food for you are in the land of Milk and Ghee. Leave all the restrictions for once as food is “Utterly Delicious and Buttery Too”.

 

Go Bengal, Go Banana’s

Pazham-pori (banana slices covered with a fried crust made of sweetened flour) is a much liked Malayalee delicacy, though not a dessert it can be taken done as one due to the sweetness of it. I was visiting a friend for dinner and just polished off her moms excellent Karimeen Pollichatu, when I was made to indulge into a few of these fried banana dumplings, the request though was turned down as I am not a big fan of this acquired taste. So while I sat down with a bowl of Haagen Dazs the other on the table gulped the fried delicacies down and slammed me for not liking the most produced and consumed fruit in India. The Chocolate Decadence was really good so I did not bother to reply to their claims when I suddenly remembered leave the banana aside we bengalees consume most of the banana tree too. Well yes quite literally we do almost eat every part of the tree, the fruit generally called Mocha (not to be confused with coffee) is made into a Ghonto (chopped or finely grated vegetables cooked with ghee), the stem (yes the stem) or thor as it is known is used to made a dry dish with grated coconut to be had with rice, the ripe bananas too are sometimes made into a paste and fried in oil to make Kolar Bora (Fried Banana Dumplings ) which is taken as a snack and yes we do use the unripe banana too in curries such as Shukto (a bitter dish made with a wide assortment of vegetables including bitter gourd) and Kofta (we know paneeer kofta, instead of panner used mashed unripe green banana). Quite a list eh, bring me a challenge to that.

I haven’t ever tried Thor or the quite horrible tasting Kolar Bora (Fried Banana Dumplings), my grand mom did try forcing me to taste a few but all efforts had gone in vain, in recent memory my aunt too had tried but again efforts were futile. I do however have tried Mochar Ghonto (dish made out of the banana flower) and Shukto (the bitter dish) and like them too. I have seen my mom as well as my aunt making both the dishes and I have gleefully sampled them over the years. Shukto as explained earlier is a a bitter dish made with a wide assortment of vegetables including bitter gourd and the Green bananas play a major role. The vegetables are cooked in a ginger, mustard curry and topped off with crushed fried Bori (I do not have an explanation for that). The Kachkolar Kopta (Green Banana Kofta) is basically using mashed green Bananas to make kofta balls rather than paneer, the gravy in which it is put is often a onion, garlic and garam masala based.

 

 

 

 

Mochar Ghonto (Banana Blossom Stir Fry) is quite laborious to prepare as separating the flowers and then chopping up the same to arrive at the required volumes requires a lot of patience. The chopped up flowers is then cooked along with potatoes, the dish is added with garam masala and ghee for the flavoring bit. Have the same served with hot rice and you have a feast.

We dont eat the leaves of the plant but there are a certain number of dishes such as Bhapa Mach (steamed fish) which uses the leaves to wrap up the mustard covered fish to be steam prepared along with cooking of rice. The wrapping is similar to a Karimeen Pollichatu or a Patrani Macchi only that bongs steam the fish and do not grill it. The fish in general is Ilish or Bhetki (I am useless when it comes to recognizing fish so no English translations) covered in a mustard and green chili paste.

So then what do we have out of the Banana tree, a bitter starter in Shukto and a sweet one in Thor, next would be the Mochar Ghonto (Banana Blossom Stir Fry) followed by the Kachkolar Kopta (Green Banana Kofta. For desserts you can choose to have Kolar Bora (Fried Banana Dumplings) along with Doi (Sweet Curd). And you can choose to sit down cross legged and sample all of the same on banana leaf too.

Give me another example of using a tree to cook up a full meal !!!

PS – The Chocolate Decadence from Haagen Dazs is available at Spar, Koramangala

Kerela Sadya

Kerala or Malayalam Cuisine has always been linked to its richness to the culture of the land. A cuisine it has a multitude of both vegetarian and non vegetarian dishes owing to the fact that the land is inhabited by Hindus, Muslims and Christians the latter of the 3 contributing most to the non veg fare. The Spice Trade ensured that Kerala was one of the main drivers of the world economy and that resulted in the people coming in from the Red Sea ports (Muslims) as well as the Mediterranean one (Christians) and thus after 2000 years Kerala Cuisine is a blend of indigenous as well as foreign tastes. The long coastline ensures that fish plays an integral part along with the usual poultry and meat, and though vegetarian’s do exist they are generally very rare in this part of the country, though Tapioca would be the King of vegetable here. The abundance of coconut results it in being used in a wide variety of dishes as a thickening or a flavoring agent though the taste for such dishes is a much acquired one and most of us from upper or middle India may find it a bit weird.

My own experiences of Kerala Cuisine had started since the days I moved to Bangalore with the occasional dinner of Appams and Sorpotel at Coconut Grove. Koramangala later had a more seafood oriented Kerala restaurant (still there) called Kubay serving excellent prawns, mussels, squids and Kari Meen. Once a month I would visit the place with my sister to polish off a few plates of prawns, squids and Kari meen along with some hot appams. That was the fare of Kerala cuisine I knew till 2006 till I shifted to Manipal for my higher studies. The search for some good food and that too cheap led me to this humble Malayalee mess wherein I got to sample Kerala Porotta, small round looking layered flat bread. Order a dozen of those and a plate of beef chilly and for 30 bucks I could have a good meal. This was the usual staple here for the 2 years I was in Manipal although occasionally I did try out the Biryani and a much smaller version of the Sadya. I found the biryani something to fill yourself up at best. It was more of rice along with mutton and a few spices, but for 30 bucks no one was complaining. The Sadya is a basically a traditional banquet food vegetarian in nature served specially during special occasions, but then the mallu uncle there was serving it saying so and along with the regular fare we got quite a large piece if fish fry so we didn’t complain. The meal consisted of Boiled rice, again an acquired taste and I stuck to the white one, kappa or a baked Tapioca dish which was to be eaten along with the fish curry served separately, on days he had Aviyal a thick mixture of vegetables, curd and coconut, seasoned with coconut oil and curry leaves, and sometimes Thoran (dry curry). Not the quite authentic place but for low prices and quite tasty food no one did complain. As for desserts he did serve pazham-pori (plantain slices covered with a fried crust made of sweetened flour) but the overwhelming smell of raw banana fried in coconut oil did not make it a very satisfying treat. Twice during Onam celebrations in college I also got to try out the Ada payasam (Ada, a flat form of rice) and the Paripu payasam (made from dal) but that too wasn’t enough to send any of my sweet tooth ringing.

I started working since 2008 and spent quite a lot on testing out my gastronomical abilities, newer places were found as I did not have to rely on 30 bucks meals and the whole Kubey, Mallu mess thing took a backseat till is went to Cochin.

Stew (using chicken, beef, lamb, or fish), traditional or chicken curry (Nadan Kozhi Curry), chicken fry (Kozhi Porichathu/Varuthathu), fish/chicken/mutton molly (fish or meat in light gravy), fish curry (Meen Curry), fish fry (Karimeen Porichathu/Varuthathu), lobster fry (Konchu Varuthathu), Spicy Beef Fry (Beef Ularthiyathu), Spicy Steamed Fish (Meen Pollichathu) and a whole lot of other thathu’s and chathu’s were suddenly introduced and I learn t what idea I did have about Kerela cuisine was not even 10% of what was there. Kerela cuisine is a non vegetarians delight as they have every variety of meat preparation once can imagine of. Chicken is generally used in stews (ishtoo rather) eaten during breakfast, or served as a curry or dry to go along as a side dish, Kozhi Porichathu/Varuthathu to be specific. Mutton is used to make light curries along with beef but then Spicy Beef Fry or Beef Ularthiyathu is the champion dish. Fish curries are very common, Meen Curry is available almost everywhere the curry made with coconut milk, my personal favorite is the Karimeen Porichathu.

Karimeen ( Pearl Spot) is a fish which is very abundantly available in back waters all over Kerala. It is marinated with lemon juice, ginger garlic paste& salt, layered with a coarse paste of small onion, red chilly, tomatoes & curry leaves. The fish is then wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over a tawa.

The past year I also did get a chance to try out the truly authentic Sadya and even though the fare was vegetarian it as nevertheless brilliant. I have heard of Sadya menus which number to 24 but still haven’t got an opportunity to sample that vast a menu. The ones I did sample consisted of 10 to 12 dishes consisting of

Parippu : A thick lentil dish eaten with rice, papadum and ghee.

Sambar & Rasam : Assuming everyone knows what these are

Aviyal : Thick mixture of various vegetables, yogurt, and is seasoned with coconut oil and curry leaves.

Kaalan : Made of yogurt, coconut, and any other vegetables. It is very thick and more sour than Aviyal.

Olan : A preparation of pumpkin, coconut milk, and ginger seasoned with coconut oil.

Koottukari : One or two vegetables like banana and coconut with a hot and sweet taste.

Kichadi : Made of yogurt and cucumber in raw or cooked form.

Pachadi : A sweet form of kichadi, but made with pineapple and coconut.

Injipuli : Curry made of ginger, tamarind, green chilies, and jaggery.

Thoran : A sauteed dish of vegetables such as peas, green beans, raw jackfruit,with grated coconut.

I did eat all through the menu though left the Thoran out, raw jack fruit is not quite my taste.

On my more recent trips to Kerala allowed me to try out the stew with Duck, potatoes and onions simmered gently in a creamy white sauce flavored with black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, green chillies, lime juice and shallots. Meat thoran (dry curry with shredded coconut) and meen molee (spicy stewed fish) are another two dishes one can try out along with Appams.

I am still yet to sample a decent dessert though, the payasam which I have had was mediocre at best, so if anyone knows a place which does serve good stuff you know where to reach me.

It is just coincidence that I am publishing this on Onam, however if someone does read this and offer me a Onam Lunch / Dinner he / she shall do my stomach a world of good.

The Taste of India

Ever Wondered what would actually signify as the real “Taste of India”, I am not asking visualize Amul Butter rather try reflecting your thoughts on the varied Demographics of the Ethnically Diverse Indian Subcontinent. But then that would ensure your mind turning into a “Jalebi”.

India over the years has experienced immigration and intermingling resulting in “Cultural Cauldron” which stretches from the deep tropical trees of Kerala to the alpines in Jammu. All of them mixed together and the very concept of “Indian Food” over the years have taken a bad beating. Much to blame are our so called “Mohan Ka Dhabas” who serve “Launch and Diner” (Chineese, Muglai, Conti). I scene that is so common these days all of these “Dhabas” would be (mostly) run by a very welcoming “Punjabi”, the cooking staff would be “oriyas / bihari’s” and the food served by some “Chotus”. All of this would combine to constitute the biggest and most damaging “Culinary Slander” ever prepared. The ones serving “Chinees” food would proudly display their “Chefs”, mostly underage “Nepalese”, as authentic “Chinees” ones, who would prepare “Fried Rice” and “Gobi Manchurian” at speeds which would put “Mac Donald’s” and “Burger King” to shame.

Now “Gobi Manchurian” is not “Indian Food”, not even with the generous helping of “Dhania” and “Haldi” which has been put into it, which makes it not so “Chinees” as well. But then we are still obsessed with “Gobi Manchurian”, a decent bar along with “Kingfisher Premium” or “Kalyani Black Label” would any day serve several “Kilos” of the so called modified “Chinees” version of our “Desi” “Gobi”. But then if not the “True Taste of India” it certainly is the “Most Tasted Ones”. Then there is the “western Influence”. The “Curry & Kadai” people got their first taste of “Western Food” and they no longer wanted “Dahi”, “Yogurt” was the order of the day. “Roti and Parantha” a day dosnt necessarily keep the doctor away, ghee is shunned, we gift chocolates for “Diwali” rather than sweets, kids don’t eat “Kalaa Khatta” any more they prefer “Softees”, pizza sales have sky rocketed (30 minutes nahi to free, the formula guarantees arrival of a pizza earlier than an ambulance) and “Power Lunches” have replaced the “Old Dabbas” (What ever will happen to Milton and Cello). The “Mango People” are not “Aam” any more. The traditional “Khaata Peeta Banda” image has been shunned for “Lean right now is In”.

The point however is not to shun eating outside, please do rising Per Capita Income allows us to do so. But then why the certain complete knowledge catastrophe when it comes to Indian Food. Confusion has lead to we not even realizing what Indian Food actually is. The average Indian does not even know what his fellow countrymen eat in other parts of the country. We up in the north think southern cuisine is all but “idlys, dosas and sambhar”, the ones in south think northern cuisine is basically “Punjabi Food”. When it comes to the northeast we don’t even know what they eat, except for the fact a few of them pose and cook “Chinees” delicacies such as “Gobi Manchurian” and “Fried Rice”. The west seems even more confused and all they know about Indian Cuisine is a dish called “Chicken Tikka Masala”. A Indiana Jones movie (Temple of Doom) even shows Indian eating “Monkey Brains, Chilled Eye Soup even Snakes”. The fault however is not theirs and much blame is ours. The origins of the dish too is not Indian as it was prepared by a “Bangladeshi” chef who whipped up a spicy tomato sauce (one variation has him using Campbell’s tomato soup), poured it over the chicken and created an instant hit.

The convoluted history of the above dish demonstrates the difficulty in trying to identify “Authentic Indian Food”. But to be fair to us “Indians” and our lack of knowledge about our own cuisine is the fact that Indian food has been shaped by millennia of foreign influences, including migrants introducing their traditional recipes; conquerors imposing new palace cuisines; merchants importing unfamiliar plants; and new religions with their own dietary laws. All of the above have resulted in a “Culinary Cooking Pot” found across the sub continent today.

But then a deeper look into the cuisines would show the influences left by the “Persians” and “Portuguese”. While cuisine in northern India is heavily influenced by the “Persians” the “Portuguese” had its influence in “Goa” resulting in dishes such as the “Vindaloo” (Spelt vinho e alho, meaning wine and garlic), Sorpotel and Chourisam. Even the “Pao” served along with “Pao Bhajji” ever so popular in the streets of Bombay” was influenced by the Portuguese who realized the lack of “Yeast” to make bread rise could be overcome by “Toddy” (fermented palm juice). Corn was first introduced in India by the Portuguese allowing the “Punjabis” to make the now famous “Makke ki Roti”. “Chilies”, “Tomatoes” even “Potatoes” were introduced in India by the Portuguese. The Original Taste of India I would suppose was quite bland and uninteresting.

“Meat” was never quite a staple in the Indian food plate and we were more vegetarian. The “Mughal Age” basically allowed a huge inflow of both culture and culinary knowledge from “Persia” into India. Marinating meat to be “Grilled” to make “Kebabs” or other “Kormas” was learnt from the “Persians”. Use of “Garlic” and “Onions” too came into frame during the “Mughal Era”. Best if all thanks to them “Biryani” came into existence. The effect of the “Persians” and “Portuguese” in Indian Cuisine has been immense. The west more so Britain though ruled us all they were able to influence were “Tea, Cutlets and Custard”. All three are now found in plentiful at most “Railway Stations”. Weren’t that popular I would say.

“Indian Cuisine” is too generic a term to describe India’s vast culinary diversity and variety. I explained why we being “Indians” were so confused with our own cuisine, for the rest of the world though the image was made by the narrow range of focus on “Indian Dishes”, which too was served by an Indian who was already confused. The first restaurants (opened again by a humble Punjabi) served dishes as the “Butter Chicken”, “Tandoori Chicken, Kebabs, Rogan Josh etc. The menu however caught on and “Indian Food” outside India thus claimed a more “Punjabi” touch to it. But these were not the food which an average “North Indian” would eat every day. “Chapatis”, “Naans”, “Pooris” were more the staples taken with “Daal”, “Subzies” and “Panner” (notice the vegetarian touch).

The same way as the north the cuisine of the south too were signified from the numerous “Darshinis” (Udipi style restaurants) which opened up. South Indian food is not merely rice, dosa and sambhar. Though rice is the staple here Mouthwatering curries are prepared with a wide assortment of meats, vegetables and are finished off with the traditional tempering of coconut oil fried curry leaves, mustard seeds and dried red pepper.

If borders could be drawn on a imaginary map of “Indian Cuisine” it would be a general one segregating the north from the south. But then there is more to than just north and south Indian cuisine. “Thupkas”, “Momos”, “Khorisa Tenga” (pickled Bamboo), “Baaganjhor Logot Gahori” (pork with bamboo shoots), “Rongalao Aru Haanhor Manxor Jhol” (Duck with Pumpkin) too are a big art of “Indian Cuisine” which hails from the north eastern part of the country. Contrary to popular belief that the cuisine of the north east is heavily influenced by the “Chinese” it is actually influenced by the regions of “Bengal”, “Nepal” and in cases even “Bangladesh”. But then I’m sure apart from the people who cook and eat the above mentioned dishes most of us are not aware about anything on north eastern Indian cuisine.

There is much more to “Indian Cuisine” than what we know about it. Its enough to leave us confused but then that is the fun with India with each place offering a unique cuisine of its own due to the influence of the cultures present there in most cases foreign. As “Madhur Jaffrey” puts it “No foreign food was discarded. It was just made Indian”.

So as the world samples “Chicken tikka Masala” and while “Pizza Hut” dresses its pizzas with “Tandoori Chicken” let us “Indians” try and experience “Indian Cuisine” in a way never done before. Let’s shun the “Fried Rice” and “Gobi” and try out “Rongalao Aru Haanhor Manxor Jhol” instead, lets dump the cola for a “Sherbet”, have your ice cream alone with a “Jalebi”, try out a “Kulfi” , have a “Paan” instead of a stupid mouth freshener.

Let’s start discovering our country through our STOMACHS, the “Real Taste of India” lies in there itself.

Sarbajanin or Commercial ??

The rising beats on the “Dhak”, the ambience of the “Man daps”, the continuous clatter and chatter of “Bengalees” all age and sizes, for 4 days Goddess Durga descends for her annual sojourn to her paternal house when the normally sleepy “Bengalees” awake and welcome the goddess.

I cant go back much when it comes to giving the history of the evolution of “Puja” , but since the days I was a kid till the present day I have seen the transformation of “Durga Puja” from a mere celebration of the Goddess to big business, for a whole range of businesses. I grew up with the Puja being a mere celebration, with “Chada” (donations) collected locally from the people of the colony / neighborhood where the Puja was organized. The “Para” came together to help out for the daily duties and even enjoyed a “Community Bhog” together. For once in a year we were more than just mere “Neighbors”. There also was another means of holding the “Puja’s” specially the ones held by the Local “dadas” -mostly youths who didn’t have much else to do in life – go about collecting the donations (and everyone happily obliged, after all, who would deny the “Devi” herself. A budget of 10000 to 15000 would allow them to have the “Puja” and some very cheerful “High Times”.

However there were certain “Bigger” Puja’s, Ekdalia Evergreen, Santosh Mitra Square (pardon the bad memory for not naming a few more) comes to mind. These were much bigger in scale with the “Man dap” surrounded by a few “Food Stalls” (most of them selling rolls), a place to shoot down balloons (one could not, the aiming device was sabotaged), occasionally a few of them even had small merry go rounds. North Calcutta stayed at North and South in South. “Pandal” Hopping meant within a distance of 2 kilometers. The smaller “Pandals” was designed to be a box like structure, the bigger ones were more like a mix of Carnatic and Chinese architecture (began resembling a typical South Indian Temple but then swiftly resembled a pagoda as one looked up.

Pretty boring eh, but then suddenly as if someone lifted “Trade Barriers” the “Puja’s” became a whole new different ball game. BIG was the order of the day and BIG the “Puja’s” did turn out to be. Private Sponsorship, Event Management Companies, Extensive Media Coverage, Best Puja Awards the late 1990’s saw Puja shed it 1980 inhibitions and emerge as fresh dazzling spectacle, a way that no one expected it to be.

The humble “Para Puja” committee was done with and Event Management Companies came into being. Earlier the “Para” uncles acted as Chairmen of the Puja Committees and the local youth did all the work like deciding the Priest, buying the necessary items for Puja and distributing “Prasad”. But then this along with the BOX shaped Pandal would not guarantee a second look from the passing visitor the chances of winning the “Best Puja Award” was as minimal as “Ganguly” hooking “Shoiab” for a Six. But “Dada” being “Dada” remained in top flight with that, the humble committee could not. Thus the idea of having sponsors came in allowing one to spend on the “Puja Decorations”. It started with the local “Biscuit”, “Chanachur” “Hawai Chappal” brands who did sponsor but soon, the Corporate Bigwigs made an entry. Initially they were just “Sponsors” but now they are more of “Travel”, “Media”, and “Associate” partners. The story is similar to the smaller cities too where the MNC FMCG and Electronic companies viewed this as a way to enter the rural market in a bigger way, as no other medium would give them greater visibility.

Now that there was an overflow of funds the dealing with the decoration of the “Man daps” became supremely organized. The “Boxed Shaped” or rather “Tall Looking” structures gave way to structures resembling architecture from around the world. India too was not missed and unheard temples otherwise were created which were gazed upon by people lining up in huge queues. The “Pandal” over the years have been decorated with “Bhars” (earthen pots) to “Beedi” leaves. But as expenditure in these cases shot up so did the quality of design and planning for such events. Specialized firms were hired to do the job. What generally took 2 to 3 weeks of planning and execution now became an effort which required planning to the detail.

Kumartuli is probably the most important place in Calcutta just before the “Puja’s”. But then as before the orders for the “Devi” are not as simple as it used to be. Designer “Thakurs” are on the rise and each of them are custom made. With the individual “Puja’s” willing to pay more with their inflated budgets, the profits in this side of town have increased by many folds. There now exists a proper supply chain solution to the business and use of computers to keep track of specifications and delivery schedules. But the real BUCK as one would call comes from the overseas orders. New York and London are old boys a newer breed in the huge Bengali Diaspora across the globe comes from Geneva, Moscow, and Sydney. The humble “Puja” has become a global spectacle.

The spectacle that it is today the “Puja’s” must give the media its fair share of credit. The time we were growing up DD Bangla was the only Bengali news channel around and no one watched it as the shows were outright horrible. However, the last 2 years have seen as many as 21 Bengali news and entertainment channels come into existence, not to forget nearly 50 channels catering to the various districts, the city of Kolkata and other local channels. Increased competition among these players has seen innovation in the manner in which they cover the “Puja’s”. Nowadays one can relax at home and allow the “Media” to hop around the “Pandals” thus getting to see each of the “Man daps” which otherwise would mean standing in a queue at least 3 miles long.

Bengalees love to eat and the “Puja” meant a reason to splurge in eateries. The “Community Bhog”, “Rolls” dished out by the local stall, the “Kosha Mangsho” (meat curry) and “Luchi” at home were the choices to choose from. But then right now it would mean a trip to “Oh Calcutta” or “Bhojohori Manna” for a 10 course meal, the simple “Community Bhog” which was just a 2 course meal now comes cooked by a pre appointed caterer along with both “Ammesh” and “Nirameesh” (Veg / Non Veg) choices. The “Urban” would rather cut a cake for “Durga” rather than put in calories by having “Sandesh”. One of the popular cola companies during my childhood in Calcutta used to advertise their product saying “Pujoy Chai Tufaani Chumuk” (This Puja dive into a thunderous sip), nowadays you are more likely to see “Matro 16 cold drink keno?” (Only 16, why have cold drink?).

“Puja” also meant one night of entertainment with the “Para” idol singling old Bengali songs joined in by numerous other’s who like him were well off tune and any “Raag”. Nowadays one would not be surprised if you find Shah Ruk Khan shaking a leg with you. You could also find our “Beloved Dada” beside you trying hard to match Shahruk. Celebrity guests like Shahruk himself are now a common sight during the “Puja’s”. These celebs are often sponsored by huge corporates who feel under media coverage this would be a huge impact. The “Para Idol” nowadays has a new role, delivering mantras for the “pushpanjali”.

Fashion during the 4 days has also witnessed a huge change. The traditional “Dhuti” “Panjabi”, “Saree” may be ok for “Maha Ashtami” but otherwise it is designer clothes specially designed for the 4 days. Ladies have shed their inhibitions too and one would not be surprised to see someone in a short dress or hot pants. The very way of shopping for “Puja” has changed drastically. While earlier it meant toiling hard in long queues and getting stuck in traffic nowadays it means hopping into a mall and avail all under the same roof, at competitive prices, “special Puja discounts”, with an eatery to re-energize and a movie theatre to unwind at the end of long shopping session. If you are lucky you can also find yourself to be the “most beautiful shopper” etc.

Given the so called glitz and glamour of the “Puja” these days’ purists might argue that the very innocence of the “Pujas” is being lost. Even though I have been out of Calcutta for over 6 years now I can still feel “Puja” rushing its way through. A few of you might think I am being highly romantic but that is seriously the case. “Puja” lets you have the feeling for the few days it is there. One needs to experience “Puja” the way it is meant to be. The last thing we would want is for “Puja’s” to turn out to be too commercial for us to handle.

We are all but “Bheto Bangalis” who love to eat, talk and laze around. “Puja’s” were a mean of getting the family together and enjoying. While our “Dads” and “Uncles” got busy with getting things arranged for the festival our “Mothers” got the other womenfolk together to help out in the daily routines to performing the “Puja”. We dressed in our new clothes did the “Odd jobs” and for once got perm to hop around the city to watch other “Puja’s” across the city. Food this time around was always very “Bangali”, most of the delicacies cooked at home. This was the very essence of a “Sarbajanin” “Puja”. The main importance was to get together a

nd have a good time. “Adda” and “Khaowa Dawa” was of extreme importance for the few days.

Has the “Huge Commercialization” overcome the feeling of the “Sweet Autumn Skies”, the “Sound of the Dhak” ,“the misty ambience of the man daps” and given way to Shah Ruk Khan dancing around in front of the “Man dap” shouting “Korbo Lorbo Jeetbo Re?”

Hopefully it hasn’t.