We often made Kebabs at home, these did not necessarily pop out of out backyard tandoor but rather came fried out of my moms decade old frying pan. Meat patties were flavored with spices before frying them carefully to retain their softness so that one needn’t use their teeth to eat them. My mom turned these out occasionally and especially during parties held at our place. I helped her out in most occasions and thereby know the whole process by heart, but me helping out was more for the promise of the first kebab landing in my tummy than helping mummy. My mom kept a very strict account of all the kebabs made and gave me permission to finish any leftovers, much to my mum’s delight and my plight there were never any leftovers. Move forward to 2003 when I came to Bangalore and started college, I was staying with my aunt and she too once a year produced the same kebabs to be sold at the yearly Durga Puja celebrations. The best part was that she ensured every helping hand got quite well rewarded. Sadly my aunt relocated to Calcutta last December and there would be no kebabs on offer (my single room does not even have a kitchen).
And then just by chance I stumbled upon “Tunday Kebabi”. Passing by my ever food sensing radars locked on a smell that had been familiar right from childhood and within an ETA of a few seconds almost as if drawn by the fragrance I landed in front of a shop selling kebabs just the way I knew it. A large frying pan and a man next to it expertly making small patties and frying them up to be served piping hot it was as if I rediscovered home again. The place is located in Koramangala 5th block (the JNC lane) above “Lazeez”. Food is made at the entrance especially the kebabs a evil way to draw people full to the brim to come and have a sample at least. There were mutton and chicken dishes but they were for another day to sample. The place was full so I was asked if I wanted to get the food packed. Yes I did want to pack them up but then I wanted to sample them too. My answer, “yahin pe khana hain” attracted stares. I proceeded to find a seat for myself in that jam-packed hall, and unable to do so sat on a lone gas cylinder and ordered. I packed 2 plates of the “Tunday Kebabs” along with rotis and sampled a plate there. Food arrived, I started eating, more or less unmindful of the pairs of eyes still on me. A few lecherous, mostly curious, and some disapproving. Once the Tundes finished, I happened to look around the place and noticed the owner had pictures of him and several Bollywood stars placed all around the eating area, there was one with “Priyanka Gandhi” too.
I came back again the next day along with a friend of mine and this time we even ordered some chicken. The roasted chicken was supposed to be the way it is but a tag bit dry for my taste. We shared some more “Tunde’s” and split a “Firni” for desert. The meal cost us 300 bucks which going by the quantity and quality of the food was quite a good deal.
I came back home and for the first time in 24 years of my life tried doing some research on the type of kebabs my aunt and mum made. Result a rich Lucknowi nobleman once lost all his teeth, yet couldn’t give up his love for kababs. So he ordered his One handed master chef to whip up a kabab that he could eat without missing his teeth, meaning, the kabab had to just melt in his mouth. So successful was the experiment that the recipe lived on, predictably called Tunde Kabab. My grandfather had spent quite some time as an IAS officer in Lucknow and going by his passion for Kebabs my grand mom must have picked up the recipe for this tasty easy to make kebabs and passed it on to my mom and aunt.
Damm !! after all the years of thinking the famed kebab cooked at home was invented by my mom/ aunt I need to take a re look at it and sink in the feeling that it was actually a creation of a “One handed Bawarchi” working for a “Toothless Owner”. I am suddenly hungry all over again.